October 8, 2024

Counting down to COP29

I have no idea if any leather industry associations, be they national, regional or global, are beavering away and about to produce another leather manifesto ahead of the upcoming COP29, but it does looks as though, with all the governmental goings on – newly elected representatives and leaders plus upcoming elections – around the world, a leather industry statement would find plenty important people who might read it.

The previous Leather Manifestos were well-supported and well-written documents and have moved the needle. It is essential to produce factual documents with which to discuss the industry’s scientific underpinnings and get these into the hands of a wide range of legislators, business and environmental press. And many others throughout all sectors using leather as well as the supply chain from livestock onwards.

This needs to be done by individual effort rather than mass social media. A copy sent with a covering letter to your relevant government minister, local official or environmental group has much more impact. When I sent a copy of the first manifesto to my local Member of Parliament, I was surprised to get a reply that he fully agreed and would forward it to his minister. But every single one of us fighting for leather has to do it. You cannot just pay a subscription – or conveniently forget to pay it – and expect others to do it all. This is teamwork. Using social media alone for such messages is like talking to yourself. Social media is for more exciting stuff.

Over the last few years, we have gradually seen the mood change as correct information on hides and skins and tanning has moved through the global system. The manifestos produced have highlighted the value of natural materials and effectively countered the misleading environmental claims against them.

The need to keep the pressure up comes from two ongoing battles

First, although the EU deforestation legislation (EUDR) has been postponed for one year, the fight is far from over. It is gratifying to see that Cotance has enough good data to confidently publish the string of headlines that “Leather is not a driver of deforestation”, along with its points on the loss of important employment and the environmental risks of cheap replacements.

Since the postponement of this legislation, there are several senior EU voices writing about the delay as damaging to the EU’s credibility. There is no suggestion yet that, when it returns, leather will be excluded. In fact, one quote saying that “obtaining the required geolocation data may be easy for cattle and products made from them” implies getting leather removed will be hard. With dry weather and arson, Amazon deforestation has again been escalating so we must be cognisant of this and manage our supplies accordingly. This remains a major ongoing battle, delayed but far from won.

Influence of big oil

The other aspect is longer term and just as furtive. According to the World Economic Forum, companies including U.S.-based ExxonMobil and Saudi Arabia’s Aramco, are ramping up output of plastic – which is made from oil and gas and their byproducts – to hedge against the possibility that a serious global response to climate change might reduce demand for their fuels. With COP29 being hosted by yet another major oil producing country – one devoid of a net zero plan, whose economy is over 90% dependent on oil and gas – we must expect to be told about the value of plastics in reducing the weight of automobiles, for preserving food longer, for insulating buildings and keeping medicines safe. Natural materials will have a tough fight.

These petrochemical products, that include plastics, had by 2019 already moved to 14% of all oil use and can be expected to drive half of oil demand growth between now and 2050, according to the International Energy Agency (IEA). The World Economic Forum predicts plastic production will double by 2040.

The question being asked is: if we do not use plastics, what will we use? By contrast, in footwear, fashion and in the automobile industry where indoctrinated staff remain confused, the leather alternates have mostly been the worst possible coated fabrics.

We must get every hide and skin back into the system to minimise this plastic and be more supportive of the new-gen and hybrid materials (using shavings etc.) than we have been in the past.

Michael Redwood

Leather chemist, writer, and advisor on responsible leather manufacturing and material strategy. This article was originally written for ILM.